Portuguese stylist Felipe Oliveira Baptista, artistic director of the house, a wish pay homage to the contagious energy and the free and visionary spirit of Kenzo Takada, the creator of the house, passed away in 2020.
“Kenzo Takada left us on October 4, 2020. A sudden and unexpected disappearance. (…) Our relationship had been brief, and yet I had the feeling of losing a loved one” has indicated Felipe Oliveira Baptista, in the note of intent of his collection.
The luxury brand, created in 1970 by the Japanese Kenzo Takada and which has been part of LVMH since 1993, has long been famous for its abundant prints and urban style. “Kenzo is contagious freedom and movement. Everything Mr. (Kenzo) Takada did was filled with joy, elegance and a fresh and sassy sense of humor, “ had estimated the artistic director of the house Kenzo, lhen taking office in 2019, also highlighting “the way Kenzo celebrated nature and cultural diversity”.
For Felipe Oliveira Baptista – who created his own house in 2003 and twice received the award from the National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts – the most difficult to tackle his new fall-winter 2021 collection -22 was knownr “where to start ? How to transform sorrow into a living force, joyful and free? I only knew one thing – I didn’t want a polite tribute, more a celebration. The celebration of the man that was Kenzo, and his incredible vision. (…) I watched every video of the parades of Kenzo, from 1978 until 1985. I already knew his clothes and collections through archives, photos or drawings. But seeing them in motion has changed everything “.
The collection proposed by the Portuguese designer is most tonic, the female and male models – dressed in a very colorful wardrobe with ample shapes – are constantly in motion, strolling in a chaotic dance on a white disc traced on the ground, which could evoke a vinyl record. In his time, the parades of Kenzo Takada were also very animated as the DA still emphasizes: “her models paraded with jubilation, mixing grace and impertinence. Everything seemed so natural, sensual, filled with emotion … A universe opposite to what a part of fashion has become today: without soul or daring, and so predictable “.
For this collection, Felipe Oliveira Baptista selected pieces from Kenzo’s archives, and his own, filling in “several notebooks with collages, drawings and images. (…) Kenzo was the very embodiment of freedom, joy, diversity, love for nature. That the colors and prints in this collection reflect all of this, that was my wish. (…) “.
If the dynamic is present, the spirit here is more graphic – even if we find some very pretty floral prints on large ruffled dresses and comfortable jackets – but remains less poetic but modern. The times are not the same and the spirit of the party and its carelessness in times of the Covid-19 pandemic is perhaps more difficult to express!
Source site www.francetvinfo.fr