The master brewer of Sinebrychoff, Finland’s largest brewery, is changing. Tapio Kangas-Heiska leaves the limelight, into which he never pushed himself.
At the time of the interview, the master brewer had six spikes in his morning comb. The day had begun, as one in charge of a large beverage production Tapio Kangas-Heiskan working days usually begin to wake-up at 6:10, morning porridge on a plate and just over half an hour driving from Porvoo Kerava. Beer cannot be put remotely, no matter how automated the process.
After browsing the emails, the program features a board meeting, which Sinebrychoff has as much as going through the challenges of the day, including security metrics. Then meetings, Teams meetings, of course. Quality control is an integral part of the work week. Every day, if the brewery master has time, he tastes the drinks that go out to be packed. Once a week, the macurate blindly tests both fresh and aged products and sometimes the output of competitors.
At Easter, things are different for Kangas-Heiska. The master brewer and Sinebrychoff’s Keravan plant are responsible for the production of all beverages – in addition to beers, ciders, long drinks, soft drinks, energy drinks and water. Heikki Vuokko. Kangas-Heiska, who started his career at Sinebrychoff in 1981, is retiring to wait for the opening of the motorcycling season.
Before letting go of the horsepower, let’s go back to tasting with the master brewer. Quality control is a significant part of every brewery, especially in a 40,000-70,000 liter soup plant.
– The process conditions are regulated so that the consumer gets what he expects to receive. Not there (for tastings) its weirder happening. It is stated that this is as it should be. Samples are taken from the pressure tank. It is really rare that problems would arise at that stage. People taste different things, so you can wonder if the product is ok. However, work is done here with live yeast, which is not the same as driving a lathe with automation. Small differences can therefore be found.
The whiskey broadcaster I met in Scotland had a non-smoking contract in place so as not to interfere with playing with sensitive flavors. According to Kangas-Heiska, Sinebrychoff has had smoking tasting experts without any problems.
–Smoking and tasting are adjusted as long as you have not smoked just before tasting. Smokers look for flavors in different palettes. Strong perfumes, on the other hand, are not suitable for a tasting situation as they can change aroma sensations.
When Kangas-Heiska, a technical student, received a summer wash at the Sinebrychoff brewery in 1981, he did not yet know that there would be several summer washes.
– A couple of summers went as a slacker, then as a filter, Kangas-Heiska recalls
At the same time, environmental internship points related to chemistry studies had to be collected.
– Then came a call regarding the position of summer foreman. After it was washed, the employment slipped to the permanent side.
– I haven’t been a career missile. Everything has gone the way life now usually goes, without a big plan. You have to be able to live with the choices. I am pleased tekemiini choices, satisfied and lucky.
In 1992, the smell of malt gradually began to evaporate from above Hietalahti when the brewery started moving to Kerava. What changed other than the address?
– The processes did not change. In the same way beer was brewed in Kerava. The mill and wort separation changed as well as the tools, but the recipe did not change. Even water did not become a problem because its hardness remained at roughly the same level.
The old brewery already had automated operations, but in Kerava their share increased so that only a small part of the process required handicrafts.
– The new production plant is more secure. More uniform, Kangas-Heiska sums up.
The beers of beer sometimes seem to regard homogeneity as an expression of boredom.
– I would like consistent quality to matter. “Joker products” are a different matter, so you don’t know what to get. That, too, may be interesting to some. Probably everyone (brewers) strives for the beer to satisfy the needs of the buyer, but it does not always come true.
What is most important in brewing in general?
– The fact that the equipment and raw materials are clean. This is the only way to get a good beer. The beer is made to drink. Drinkability is most important. If you can’t drink like a sip, then I don’t think it’s beer. The main task is to quench your thirst. If there are no liters, there are no jobs.
In order to develop his own skills, Kangas-Heiska continued his studies in Germany in the 1990s, when his employer wanted to send him to Bavaria to obtain a master’s degree in brewing.
– When Kimmo (Jääskeläinen) provided an opportunity, did not have to think about it other than where to go. At that time, it was mainly Copenhagen. Munich was chosen for me. The brewery saw that it is good to learn from different angles.
– The most important lesson was that after ten years of standing, I saw that we were doing things quite right without the limitations of the law of cleanliness. I received confirmation, but I also learned how to live with Reinheitsgebot.
The Bavarian beer law Reinheitsgebot of 1516 does not tolerate great liberties. How does a Bavarian school man feel about flavoring beer with peanut butter, mango and chili, for example?
– In principle, I am not against it, as long as the drinkability of beer is maintained. Here, too, you have to choose what to put in and what to aim for. If we seek everything possible and rotten without thinking more, then is a greater amount of raw materials better than less and with thought.
The Reinheitsgebot clearly did not stifle Kangas-Heiska’s creativity too much when he designed the 200th anniversary beer of Sinebrychoff, founded in 1819, which utilized wild yeast (Saccharomyces paradoxus) from the oak bark found in Oitta, Espoo.
I haven’t been a career missile. Everything has gone the way life usually does now, without a big plan. ”
Kangas-Heiska was also on site when Sinebrychoff Porter was placed in one of the most famous brewing towns in the world In Burton-Upon-Trent, England. It was put on Marston’s yeast for practical reasons. Hop varieties are talked about more today than malt, let alone yeast strains? Which of these ingredients is the soul of beer?
– The soul of beer can, of course, be defined in such a way that beer, at least not without yeast. It and wort sugar build up the world of taste, producing hundreds of flavor compounds. Basically, yeast builds a palette that the hops season. In the festive beer of 1819, the yeast tasted like hops had been thrown to flavor our basic wort on the bottom. The end result was so different.
Sinebrychoff Porter is the crown jewel of the brewery according to a certain group of consumers. What is its prestige within the brewery today?
“Perhaps the longevity of the product speaks volumes,” says Kangas-Heiska of the beer that Sinebrychoff has been making continuously since 1957.
– It doesn’t make sense to keep it in production, but it’s such a damn good beer, Kangas-Heiska says and strongly believes in Porter’s future.
Brewing doesn’t give birth to celebrities to the same extent as the restaurant world. Kangas-Heiska is, to a minimum, a master brewery master, unlike, for example, an American Garrett Oliver, with whom Kangas-Heiska put Two Tree Porterin 2013. What was the cooperation like?
– It was relatively fast. Throwing ideas and discussing without a huge development process. Both sides made their voices heard. I appreciate him as a master brewer, and he has accomplished a lot.
Sinebrychoff has been owned by giant Carlsberg since 1999. How free is the master brewer in Kerava?
– Over the years, operations have been systematized according to Carlsberg’s models. Operations will be directed more from the skull site from joint purchases. Of course, the bigger the company, the further away the decision-making is. In the past, decisions were made here. Everything is behind longer preparation. I wish it was otherwise, but realism it is not.
The soul of beer can, of course, be defined in such a way that beer would not exist without yeast, at least. It and wort sugar build up the world of taste, producing hundreds of flavor compounds.
Sinebrychoff has launched more than 130 new beers during Kangas-Heiska’s working years. Kangas-Heiska says that he reads the reviews of bloggers and journalists lazily. Feedback from consumers is getting closer.
– If Finns today claim to be sheaths, then they are not like that by the keyboard. Sometimes the feedback is colorful and fresh – in both directions. Time is often missed after the characters have disappeared.
Some of the beer brands have been dug because they may have been ahead of their time. Cheers could be like that, as was Amber.
Is there a beer from another brewery that you would have liked to brew yourself?
– Sometimes I have said that Orvalilla is the perfect bottle. And it’s not bad inside the product either, Kangas-Heiska responds with a small dodge.
Could you guess that next, the retiree’s calendar will be filled with consulting, some small brewery in addition to cottage, golf and motorcycling?
– No one has asked yet. The consulting market seems to be full. There are two retired Koffis there, and I haven’t thought about going to a race. If anyone asks, then a different matter. I’m not penetrating myself anywhere.
Source site www.is.fi