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A la carte. Invent a new cuisine after the crisis?

Michel Guérard presents his foie gras like an apple pie. (RF / BERNARD THOMASSON)

For a long time, Thierry Marx wanted to evoke in A la Carte the “inventors” in gastronomy, all those who have changed cooking and food at a certain time in history. The health crisis is a perfect opportunity for this, because there will be a before and an after Covid in restaurants.

Cooking has always followed the evolution of society. It is this observation that gave birth to our weekly meetings with the head of Custom Made. The passage from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance, the arrival of the Italians from the 16th century with Catherine de Medici, the rise of tableware and the development of vegetables under Louis XIV, the French Revolution and the appearance of restaurants, industrial developments in the 18th century.

Closer to home, and without going back to Escoffier who launched the cuisine of palaces, let us evoke the enhancement of products after the war, or the slimming cuisine imagined by Michel Guérard in the 1970s.

Ferran Adrià carried the molecular movement, which many chefs take up without naming it in very contemporary creations. Thierry Marx offers you here to illustrate it an olive spherification recipe.

Ingredients for six :

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60 g of olive puree, 2 l of water, 7 g of alginate, 2 g of calcium lactate.

Preparation :

Dilute the olive puree with water so that it becomes liquid in the mouth. Freeze it in half-spheres.

Wait until the spheres are well taken. Then prepare the two baths: pour the alginate in 1 liter of water, and the calcium lactate in the other liter.

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Immerse the ice cubes in the water with the alginate so that they are well coated and that the alginate clings well. Then let them soak and thaw in water with the calcium.

Take out and keep cool until ready to serve, as an appetizer for example.

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